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Message body Emoticons View more Emoticons	Font colour: Default Dark Red Red Orange Brown Yellow Green Olive Cyan Blue Dark Blue Indigo Violet White Black  Font size: Tiny Small Normal Large Huge Close Tags [quote="sisbrains"][quote="vtech"]In looking at your first set of pictures, apparently those are in fact rotary encoders which are completely different than standard potentiometers. (the microcontroller Atmega48 (U1) to the right of the controls is a solid proof) While tarnish can still build up inside the controls and cause erattic operation, there is a possibilty that you may have a digital problem? [/quote] Hi Vtech, thanks for looking at them for me. The problem I have with the encoder is that when I turn the dial from zero, nothing happens until I reach about one third of the way round, then it starts counting up to 127 as normal. It isn't the end of the world, it's just that I can't tell the approximate value of the no. 2 dial by looking at it, because of this. I have just bought some 'contact cleaner' from Ebay, it was only £1.99 for a can, so I hope it's okay. [quote="vtech"] Ofcourse as jts1957 suggested you may want to spray clean it first. Keep in mind that spray-cleaning might cause a somewhat stiffer operation if you happen to have a very smooth-operated potentiometer--so don't spray all of them. As it cleans the contacts, it will also clean out any dampening fluid used for smooth pot operation. [/quote] I will start off with just a tiny spray, turn it a few times, and see if that improves things. Thanks for warning me. [quote="vtech"] On your second picture, while not an encoder, it looks to be similar in operation to a Joystick potentiometer. Meaning that the full 10k ohms is linear and accomplished within 90 degrees instead of a standard ~ 300 degrees pot.[/quote] Does that seem normal for a keyboard mod wheel? I'm sure it used to go from 0 to 127 over the entire range of the wheel's movement, it wasn't 127 at halfway.[/quote]
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