[Guest]

I highly recommend the hole enlargement process. I did not do it and within a month the new cable was pinch-damaged. I have one more cable so will do enlargement and hope for the best. I will not shorten cable, too risky with my last cable. Get 2-3 when you order!

[HarveyB]

ADD took control. Luckily I got it off without issue. the cable seems intact. Is it possible that it just needs to be re-set - or am I better off just replacing it>

With regard to the cable length. If I use the replacement cable as supplied and carve our the opening to be larger, should I be OK. IOW - do I need to strip it back to 1.65 inches?? thanks - HarveyB

[HarveyB]

great posts. I got the back cover off with ease but am unsure how to get the front cover off. I thought I would ask before I broke it:) thanks - HarveyB (new)

[REMOTEFIXR]

I followed dzfan's fix steps and successfully repaired my remote.

Thanks so much dzfan! I was able to fix my remote and have a spare cable on-hand for under $10 - shipping included, instead of $50+ that Vizio wanted for the replacement remote.

In addition to his steps, I also enlarged the pass-through opening between the front and back sliding remote halves, making what was almost nonexistent into something that WILL NOT CRIMP the cable.

This picture shows what I did, but BE CAREFUL. The spring-loaded connectors between the two sides are VERY finicky. Hold the pieces carefully as you work.

[pellicle]

I bought the cable mentioned above after my Vizio Bluetooth remote stopped working I cracked the unit open with a flat shim carefully. I found the old cable broken. The new cable while thicker fit fine. Buttoned all back up and all works fine.

[wwwgator]

try a XRV1TV remote- according to VIZIO, it can be used as a replacement for the VUR-10- has flip keyboard and more inportantly, as the VIA button. At $24.00, much more palpable than the $79

Ebay or Amazon you'll find them

[dzfan]

I successfully replaced the flat flex cable (FFC) jumper used in the VUR10 remote to connect the top and bottom halves of the remote.

The cable I used was found at Digikey for $3.88.
Digikey part number 732-3555-ND
Wurth Electronics Inc
Mfg part number 687610050002.

I also ordered and tried the Molex cable mentioned by the previous poster, but it's too thick for this application and doesn't flex easily.

Unfortunately both of these cables are too long for this application (2 inches instead of 1.65 inches), and I was unable to find a suitable off-the-shelf cable from any other distributor that was the correct length. I got around this issue by cutting the cable shorter and using an exacto knife and tweezers to cut/peel back the additional insulation necessary to make the connection. The cable was correct in every other aspect. The length is also rather important, as it can't be any shorter, or it will not reach when the remote is open, and it can't be any longer, or it will not fit properly folded when the remote is closed.

For anyone who wishes to search for another option, these are the dimensions of the original cable.
Length: 1.65 in
Pitch: 0.50 mm
Conductors: 10
Thickness: ~0.12 mm (thicker ones, e.g. 0.27 mm from Molex, are too stiff for constant flexing)
Exposed Length: 4 mm
Termination Style: Top exposed on both sides (as opposed to top on one side, bottom on the other)

The process of peeling back the insulation is tedious and exacting, and I used a 10x magnifying eye loupe to perform the task. The process I used was to first score the insulation in the line between the conductors for all ten conductors (about 4mm long), then use the blunt edge of a wide-tipped tweezers to push back the insulation. This method was superior to simply scraping off the insulation with the exacto alone. I taped down the cable to a flat surface to prevent it from moving around while I was working on it. After I completed peeling back the insulation, I checked continuity between all the conductors with a Digital Multimeter, then cut the cable to length (1.65 in, as measured by a caliper).

After completing the cable shortening, I replaced the cable in the remote and it began functioning correctly again.

To take apart the remote, I used a flat head screwdriver (or two) and pried the back cover open. I found it easier to start on the short ends rather than the long sides. There are no screws that need to be taken out. Fortunately, the clips seemed to be fairly robust, and I did not damage any of them by prying them apart. The only thing to be careful of is not to mar the plastic with the screwdriver as you pry.

The cable can be removed by first peeling off the yellow Kapton tape holding it to the connector, then pulling the brown plastic piece of the connector forward (toward the cable). This is a ZIF socket (zero insertion force), so once the brown piece is moved forward, there shouldn't be anything holding the cable in. After putting the new cable in, push the brown piece back in (once the cable is pushed all the way in; it seems to catch a little at the opening), and replace the Kapton tape. Test by putting the batteries back in before you reassemble the remote, then put it back together and you should be all set.

I'd be happy to answer any questions.

[Hillside]

Try Molex Premo-Flex. Available from Digi-Key:

WM10201-ND

21020-0097

CABLE FLAT FLEX 2" .50MM 10 POS

$5.44 each plus tax and shipping

[rrp06]

To open the remote you have to lift under the cover with a flat blade there are tabs all around the remote you have to pop up. Similar to how you would open up a dell monitor.

[GMAC]

REF YOUR QUESTION ABOUT THE VIZIO VUR10 REMOTE...I DON'T HAVE AN ANSWER, JUST A QUESTION. HOW DID YOU OPEN (TAKE APART) THE REMOTE.

I FOUND 2 LITTLE TABS UNDERNEATH THE BATTERY COMPARTMENT BUT NOTHING SEEMS TO GIVE WHEN THEY ARE MANIPULATED. BOUGHT THE TV LAST APRIL SO YEAR ISNT UP, BUT IM FAIRLY CERTAIN VIZIO WONT REPLACE ONCE THEY SEE THAT I HAVE MONKEYED WITH THOSE LITTLE TABS. PROBABLY HAVE TO BUY ANOTHER BUT, IF I CAN TRY TO FIX IT I WILL