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Interlude IL60
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jts1957



Joined: 24 Nov 2008
Posts: 2458
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

L1 or D5 (or a foil trace). Wink

Z4 unlikely, cause you say you have AC input.
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inthehunt2



Joined: 17 Jul 2011
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:21 pm    Post subject: Now I'm embarrassed Reply with quote

OK... the embarrassing part first... When I checked the output of the power rectifier, I was using AC on the volt meter. My bad... Switched to DC and it read fine.

I did find the culprit however. It was the connection from the rectifier PWB to the BASH PWB (IN+ & IN-). Loose connection. Tighten the crimp and off it went.

Back to sounding awesome!
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macwylie
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 7:23 am    Post subject: thanks Reply with quote

Just wanted to say thanks for the people who posted here. I was able to repair both of the IL60s I bought from a neighbor by replacing the R509. It was my first circuit board repair ever. I was skeptical that I could do it, but your posts helped guide me and now I've got two working speakers!

Thanks
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JohnQDough



Joined: 06 Jul 2012
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey all, I'm late to the party, but I'm having the same problem described in the earlier posts. I'm a circuit board virgin, but I have a pal that has slightly more experience, which isn't saying much. So, I (obviously) have a few questions:

1. Is replacing the R509 resistor something that we can reasonably undertake?

2. Is there anything difficult about getting to the circuit board?

3. Can someone please show me exactly what part to order? I did searches on digikey and mouser for "R509" and was unable to narrow it down to the part pictured.

4. Any other tips to help a noob are very welcome.

Thanks!
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jts1957



Joined: 24 Nov 2008
Posts: 2458
Location: Far, Far Away

PostPosted: Fri Jul 06, 2012 11:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you've read this thread from the beginning the answers to your questions are mostly there already. ("value" & physical location of R509)
Can't say as to ease as I've never actually done "this" repair. Depends on your abilities/aptitude.
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MiniZorg



Joined: 11 Jul 2012
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 1:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Interlude IL60 Reply with quote

TrevorPearman wrote:
In case anybody cares

Fixed my Interlude IL60. Both sub-woofers died within about three months of each other

Problem traced to R509 (100k 1/2W resistor) in the BASH power supply board.

In both subs, this resistor had gone open circuit. Replacing restored normal operation. Replaced with 1W instead of 1/2W resistors. I suspect they are underated.



Thank you for your post on the IL60 Sub amp fix, I had this fixed twice while the subs were under warranty. Now my Right units sub does not work but it lights up Green. Any quick ideas on what could be causing this behaviour?

Thanks!

Mike Davis
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Interlude IL60 Reply with quote

MiniZorg wrote:
TrevorPearman wrote:
In case anybody cares

Fixed my Interlude IL60. Both sub-woofers died within about three months of each other

Problem traced to R509 (100k 1/2W resistor) in the BASH power supply board.

In both subs, this resistor had gone open circuit. Replacing restored normal operation. Replaced with 1W instead of 1/2W resistors. I suspect they are underated.



Thank you for your post on the IL60 Sub amp fix, I had this fixed twice while the subs were under warranty. Now my Right units sub does not work but it lights up Green. Any quick ideas on what could be causing this behaviour?

Thanks!

Mike Davis


Also, the only other troubleshooting that I have been able to do so far is unplug the subwoofer line in RCA cable. When the center post of the RCA cable for the reciever is touched to the "Ground" of the RCA Connector on the speaker, a low hum is emmited from the Subwoofer.

Btw, I just replaced the receiver and all cables connected to this speaker. This subwoofer did not work before these new connections were made.

The Left Subwoofer works. (Knock on wood).
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JohnQDough



Joined: 06 Jul 2012
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I went ahead and did the replacement all by myself and I'm happy to say that, as of this moment, the problem is fixed! It's sooooo satisfying to know that I fixed this problem for a total of $12, which includes the cost of a soldering iron. Very Happy
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airtower
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks so much to the OP for bringing this fix up. I've been sitting on a set of IL50's for about 5 years now with broken subwoofers. Albeit the IL50 is slight different internally, it is the same resistor that was at fault (located at R22 on the IL50 - see the IL50 service manual).

I was able to replace both within the timespan of about 45 minutes. I have only hobbyist experience with soldering and this was my first PCB repair. If you have a rudimentary understanding of how a soldering iron works, you can perform this repair.

That all being said, I still have no output in my right subwoofer. The LED illuminates green when it receives speaker-level signals, but no output. Left channel is good. The service manual indicates a secondary fix for no-light, no output, but I have the light. I have little understanding of schematics and circuits, but can anyone offer any advice on what else I can check? I do not have a DMM at this time, but I suspect I will need to get one.
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pgilley984
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2013 1:43 am    Post subject: thanks!! Reply with quote

this thread was incredibly helpful - this fixed my sub.

thanks to all who contributed!

-Patrick
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