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jts1957
Joined: 24 Nov 2008 Posts: 2476 Location: Far, Far Away
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Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 5:21 am Post subject: |
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STK392-110 = Convergence
LA7833S = Vertical ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) |
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PreTenD Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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Hey, I am having the same problem. With the same Tv and all, after I unplug the 10pin I get a similar result, but instead of a straight line, it's more like a bright bluish colored light that takes up the whole screen, and the rgb sort of heads vertical. I would assume that would mean replace the horizontal IC? If so, Where is that located? |
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PreTenD Guest
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Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry for double posting, Do I also have to replace the convergence? I am new to working on Tv's |
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minnie
Joined: 18 Aug 2005 Posts: 2880 Location: Hell
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Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 2:40 am Post subject: |
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Can you post a picture? You can use photo bucket if need be. |
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yareht Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 2:43 pm Post subject: |
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hola, la falla demuestra que es un problema en la etapa de amlificacion vertical, si reeplazó el integrado vertical debe entonces revisar las dos tensiones que llegan al integrado si mal no recuerdo +15 voltios y - 15 voltios que vienen del secundario del flyback, es posible que está interrumpido una de las líneas de alimentación, si el anterior integrado estaba dañado debe haberse abierto alguna resistencia, he trabajado ese modelo aqui en venezuela y es uno de los modelo de toshiba más fáciles de reparar.
con el diagrama debe revisar esas dos tensiones y en última instancia revisar la señal desde el integrado jungla u oscilador vertical recuerde la jungla tiene muchas funciones y la señal de barrido vertical viene de allí.
espero pueda comentar resultados pronto.
yareht - venezuela- |
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yareht Guest
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Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 2:44 pm Post subject: |
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hola, la falla demuestra que es un problema en la etapa de amlificacion vertical, si reeplazó el integrado vertical debe entonces revisar las dos tensiones que llegan al integrado si mal no recuerdo +15 voltios y - 15 voltios que vienen del secundario del flyback, es posible que está interrumpido una de las líneas de alimentación, si el anterior integrado estaba dañado debe haberse abierto alguna resistencia, he trabajado ese modelo aqui en venezuela y es uno de los modelo de toshiba más fáciles de reparar.
con el diagrama debe revisar esas dos tensiones y en última instancia revisar la señal desde el integrado jungla u oscilador vertical recuerde la jungla tiene muchas funciones y la señal de barrido vertical viene de allí.
espero pueda comentar resultados pronto.
yareht - venezuela- |
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skintdigit Guest
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Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 3:28 am Post subject: Toshiba TP50H50 |
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I found this post after a lot of searching about the net. My TV is a Toshiba TP50H50 and has a similar board layout and components. I wanted to post this to say thank you to Minnie and Centralmarc for the photos and helpful advice. Our set had the dreaded blinking red light, and I followed the instructions here. I first mistakenly ordered convergence ICs, but after reading Minnie's comment about looking at the results of the "unplug the protect circuit and see if the set comes on" test, along with Centralmarc's photos, I ordered the LA7833 IC from B and D Enterprises on Ebay(I had just ordered the Convergence ICs from them a few days earlier). I repair homes for a living, but had ZERO electronics repair experience prior to this exercise. Our set was exhibiting the horizontal white line when powered up with the protect circuit unplugged, not the 3-D movie effect that would indicate a convergence problem. Purchased a desoldering iron from Radio Shack and some heat sink compound there, as well. Already owned an ancient soldering iron and some 60/40 electronics solder. It was not an easy exercise for me, getting the electronics tray far enough out and on its back to effect the repair, removing the board that interfered with removal of the vertical IC screw(flex the white guides out a bit and the board will slide right out...this took me 20 minutes to figure out)...and the desoldering/soldering of the seven tiny pins on the IC was not simple, either...had my wife hold an LED flashlight and a magnifying glass while I worked. But we got the job done and I must admit I was shocked when we plugged the set in and it works again. Thank you, ESI, Minnie, and Centralmarc....wherever you are. ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) |
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skintdigit Guest
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Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 3:55 am Post subject: Toshiba TP50H50 |
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BTW, I chose to cut away a 2" section of the plastic support tray once I had the electronics tray on its back. This seemed an easier way to access the pins on the LA7833 IC than removing the board from the plastic carrier tray. I had to unplug 3 connectors from the board on the far right side of the tray in order to get the tray out enough to tilt it on its back for the desoldering/soldering.
SD |
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skintdigit Guest
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Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 4:15 am Post subject: Toshiba TP50H50 blinking red light |
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Another BTW for you first-timers. Once you have the electronics tray moved out a bit, you'll find the vertical IC just to the right of center toward the back of the tray, connected by a screw to an aluminum heat sink, just to the right of a roughly 4x4" circuit board held vertically by two white guides. The LA7833 is a tombstone-shaped IC with seven pins. Remove the 4x4 board to access the screw for the IC.
Good luck!
SD |
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hvjr Guest
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Posted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 3:28 am Post subject: TP61H60 blinking red power light |
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Had the blinking light issue with no sound and no picture. Read thru this post from the beginning and followed the instructions for disconnecting P806, then P803. With P803 disconnected had a blue/prpl screen, no sound. Unplugged the TV to reconnect P803 and noticed the smell of something hot, you know the odor when you heat 10 years of dust. Reconnected all connectors and had the blinking power light again. I have checked all fuses F801, 850, 860, 889, and 890, all are good. Not sure if I am really checking 889 since it is not a typical fuse in a holder, looks more like a resistor and I may be measuring circuit resistance not just the fuse. In another blog it suggested disconnecting the 3 connectors near the convergence ICs. Disconnected P401, 402, and 403. No picture, no sound. Conducted the P803 and P806 removal test again. This time got nothing at all, not even a blue/prpl screen with P803 removed. Reconnected connectors and with unit plugged in I get no picture, no sound, but do have a power light but it does not blink. I was beginning to think I needed to replace the Vert IC LA7833S but now I'm not sure. Any suggestions anyone?[/code] |
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