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6.5 ohm woofer drive replacement?

 
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:42 pm    Post subject: 6.5 ohm woofer drive replacement? Reply with quote

Hi guys.can someone please tell me if this 6.5ohm woofer driver is good to replace a 8ohm woofer driver,thanks and have a merry christmas.
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vtech



Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1264
Location: USA

PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 2:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends on your Amplifier drive capability; while it is not too far off, it may be too much of a load on the amp and you have to make sure not to crank it up too much?
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 1:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. it's for a subwoofer box that has an amp of max 200w max output and i 'll be using a receiver of 100w per chan.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 11:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vtech wrote:
Depends on your Amplifier drive capability; while it is not too far off, it may be too much of a load on the amp and you have to make sure not to crank it up too much?


Thanks for your explanation but some of it just not in my knowledge,i measured the two terminals of the woofer and have 6.5 ohms with my fluke dm.i searched for more info on this speakers and could not fine anything more that what i stated on the link above,i already installed it in the woofer box connected it to the amp and replaced the 2 big 100000 caps and turned it on connected it to a Sony receiver 100w per Chan. woofer connection and it works but it seems i can't turn both volume and L.P.F 40Hz to 250Hz all the way up so i keep L.P.F. at 40Hz and i can turn volume 80% high and all good. also there is no mark for +and - there is a thin terminal which i assume that is the + the wider terminal i put in the - terminal correct me if I'm wrong.thanks [QUOTE=kaboom;201421]6.5 ohms is in the range of expected DCR of an 8 ohm nominal impedance driver.

I don't see any Thiele/Small params listed- you really want to do your homework and make sure a replacement driver will 'work right' with the enclosure and port, if present.

Neither is SPL (dB per watt @ 1 meter.) Sensitivity is much more important than power handling. At 95 dB/watt, only 10 watts gets the SPL to 105 dB. But with an 83 dB/watt driver needs 160 watts to reach the same level. And that's before power compression.


Also beware of 4 ohm drivers whose SPL is stated as "xx dB, 2.83V @ 1 meter." This inflates the SPL rating by 3 dB, since 2.83V RMS into 4 ohms is two watts, 3 dB more.

-Paul[/QUOTE]

Thanks,i measured the two terminals of the woofer driver and have 6.5 ohms with my fluke dm.i searched for more info on this speakers and could not fine anything more that what i stated on the link above,i already installed it in the woofer box connected it to the amp and replaced the 2 big 100000 caps and turned it on connected it to a Sony receiver 100w per Chan. woofer connection and it works but it seems i can't turn both volume and L.P.F 40Hz to 250Hz all the way up so i keep L.P.F. at 40Hz and i can turn volume 80% high and all good. also there is no mark for +and - there is a thin terminal which i assume that is the + the wider terminal i put in the - terminal correct me if I'm wrong.thanks
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vtech



Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1264
Location: USA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 1:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember;

When talking about "impedance", it is actually the resistance of the speaker to the AC signal--NOT DC (as a simple resistor).
In order to measure the actual impedance of a driver, you'd need to have a rather complex setup with a variable sinewave generator to get various readings at different frequency spectrums and average the result(not something for the average user).
You can however use a multimeter (like a fluke) to get an idea by means of a simple DC measurement. As a rule of thumb, the dc reading of the meter will be about 2/3 to 3/4 of the actual impedance. Therefore, what you have is very close to the 8 ohms speaker.
As far as the polarity, there should be some sort of an indication/marking on the speaker but if there isn't any, it is easy to find out;
Speaker is constructed of a stationary magnet surrounded by a moving coil which is attached to a cone. So why not get a standard 1.5v battery and momentarily touch the leads as you pay close attention to the cone movement(depending on the thickness of the paper you may have to use more than one battery)--& no it won't damage the speaker.
When the cone moves outward, positive of the battery IS the positive terminal of the speaker & vise versa.
Cool
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2011 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vtech wrote:
Remember;

When talking about "impedance", it is actually the resistance of the speaker to the AC signal--NOT DC (as a simple resistor).
In order to measure the actual impedance of a driver, you'd need to have a rather complex setup with a variable sinewave generator to get various readings at different frequency spectrums and average the result(not something for the average user).
You can however use a multimeter (like a fluke) to get an idea by means of a simple DC measurement. As a rule of thumb, the dc reading of the meter will be about 2/3 to 3/4 of the actual impedance. Therefore, what you have is very close to the 8 ohms speaker.
As far as the polarity, there should be some sort of an indication/marking on the speaker but if there isn't any, it is easy to find out;
Speaker is constructed of a stationary magnet surrounded by a moving coil which is attached to a cone. So why not get a standard 1.5v battery and momentarily touch the leads as you pay close attention to the cone movement(depending on the thickness of the paper you may have to use more than one battery)--& no it won't damage the speaker.
When the cone moves outward, positive of the battery IS the positive terminal of the speaker & vise versa.
Cool



Thanks vtech i apreciate;

You can however use a multimeter (like a fluke) to get an idea by means of a simple DC measurement. As a rule of thumb, the dc reading of the meter will be about 2/3 to 3/4 of the actual impedance. Therefore, what you have is very close to the 8 ohms speaker

i have a good fluke,are measurements made on the woofer driver terminals with the power of the amp of the sub woofer set to on with volume low?
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vtech



Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1264
Location: USA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, no.. let me clarify,
You use the fluke ONLY to measure the resistance of the speaker by itself without being connected to the amp. This will give an idea of what the actual impedance is (something that you have already done & came up w 6.5ohms which is close to 8 ohms)
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2011 8:27 am    Post subject: Woofer replacement Reply with quote

When measured with an Ohm meter 6.5 Ohms is the DC resistance of the speaker. This places it safely within the 8 Ohm impedance range.

As already said by others the impedance of an speaker is the resistance to an AC signal, which in accordance with the frequency generates a variable back EMF thus adding to the DC resistance. The impedance of a speaker is normally measured with a 1 KHz sinewave.

What you must also look at is the RMS output of the amplifier and the power handling capability of the new speaker. If the power handling capability of the speaker is the the same or higher than the output of the Amplifier, Good, if lower distortion and a blow up can be expected. So in this case never "crank" it up.
If the impedance of the speaker is lower than that indicated on the amplifier then the current draw will be excessive and it will blow either the speaker of both the amplifier and speaker. Some systems work on anything from 2 to 15 Ohm so it would be best to check the manual.
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