 Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 10:50 am Post subject: |
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The weird thing is its not consistent. Sometimes you can push it left and right and nothing happens for a long time then poof ! I took it back to the shop since they guaranteed the fix and said bring it back. Everyone does say it seems like a bad solder joint. Basically theres the tube and then the main circuit board at the bottom. Theres the panel where you plug the inputs in on the case in the back of course and another small board with some contraption on it mounted near the back of the tube. Not much really. Didnt really want to poke around the circuit board that much etc cause of all the talk of high voltages and static electricity from the tube and warnings about ......well being electrocuted to death. All the warnings are rather vague so I didnt want risk anything though I usually do like poking around such things even i dont really know what Im doing. Theres a lot of posts about other philips models and some bad thermistor or fuse or power cord input area connection. Tons of bad posts on it saying thats the cause of the TV dying out. Of course I have no idea if this is related at all with my model. I just pray they fix it this time because its literally hell to try carry that big ol hairy HDTV back and forth. It barely fits in the front seat the only place it can be squeezed into. |
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| Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 8:08 am Post subject: |
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| The wire wrapped around the tube you refer to sounds like the degaussing coil. This is used to remove any latent magnetic fields from the CRT (otherwise you can eventually get the effect you get if you place a magnet near the screen).
If just tapping the set induces the fault, then it's either a bad connection, a dry solder joint or in rare cases it can be caused by a component with the leg loose inside its body - much harder to trace. I've even had components that appear to have perfect solder joints bonding their legs to the PCB, yet you can pull the component completely out of the PCB, leaving the nice solder joints in place! This is caused by the solder no longer being bonded to the legs or a coating on the legs having come off, so only the coating is bonded to the solder, not the legs. Does the set have upright subpanels pushed into slots on the mainboard, or pushed into sockets? Cleaning any connections like that is a good idea. For the tech, all he should need to do is get tapping different areas of the board in the set until he can induce the fault, thereby narrowing down where the trouble is. I wouldn't recommend you to do this if you're not savvy as the set needs to be running of course and there are lots of high voltages about (even with the set unplugged, for days afterwards sometimes). Shouldn't be much trouble to fix this I wouldn't have thought, nothing better than a set that needs knocking to cure it or bring a fault about! |
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| Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 3:34 am Post subject: Philips HDTV 4:3 27PT830H 27" --- dies and then light b |
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| Seens zillions Philips with these problems posted all over the net. My TV worked fine until I moved it for over a year. Then merely moving it to another room it started dying repeatedly.
The thing is its erratic. Sometimes works for hours or days then dies and repeatedly blinks. Sometimes when after it dies out you can repeatedly replug it and it starts working and other times you have to let it rest for a while. Seems the longer you let it rest the longer it works. Also the picture on the screen after moving besides dying was overscanning - larger than the screen. I opened the back of it and saw one of the large wires wrapped around the tube , taped to the tube in 4 spots , one of the lower taped spots had loosened and the large wire had drooped and rested on a coil on the circuit board. The main circuit board was also loose cause two of the feet had cracked. The unit is so heavy - 100 pounds+ that when you carry the massive bulk you can feel it bending a bit and you hear cracks and snaps as the unit shifts. After retaping the wire to the tube and glueing the feet back on the circuit board it worked for one day and then started dying again and blinking. Took it to repair shop which said they replaced some caps and circuit board. It worked for one day. Then I nudged it while it was on when I was working the controls on the top of the set and it immediately died and started blinking again. At this point Id like to get a clue cause the unit is horrendous to carry back and forth to the shop and theyve already charged me 90 bucks. |
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