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PostPosted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 8:09 pm    Post subject: PSW2500

Had same problem with relay. Also fixed it Smile
PostPosted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 10:44 pm    Post subject:

I had a sub woofer with no sound at all and everything in the amp checked OK only a couple caps tested dry.and i never tested the woofer driver out of the circuit so i never imagined the it would be dead so it made sweat and the problem was the woofer driver all along,so something for you to consider and test.
PostPosted: Thu Jul 28, 2011 4:45 pm    Post subject: Transformer Voltage

My Kef 2150's transformer is outputting 38-39vac Yellow to Black. I don't think that is right. Should it be 15vac or 50vac?
Bas Horneman
PostPosted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 2:25 pm    Post subject: Thanks for the tip guys.

Replaced it with a 105 degrees version. And voila it worked like a charm again. I also left the leads a little longer so that I could keep it further away from the hot resistors.
See pic.
PostPosted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 11:55 am    Post subject:

Thanks for this tip!!!

My PSW2500 Subwoofer did the same problem too, the relay pulsated at high rate, I changed the C52 Cap which was dead, and my sub is OK now!

Very Happy

Thanks a lot!!!
PostPosted: Wed Apr 28, 2010 2:27 am    Post subject: KEF PSW 2500 relay buzz and audio outout buzz

Have just repaired a similar problem with a KEF 2500 - relay was chattering at 50 Hz rate, buzz in speaker output.

Problem was caused by overheated / dried out Electrolytic filter cap (C52 - 47uF 63V) on the relay coil supply feed.

The overheating is caused by adjacent power supply dropping resistors which run very hot due poor design of power supply.

A service manual for a similar model is available at eservice manuals, refer to power supply section:-
Note this is not the same model, but it is very similar.

See manual at

To replace,

1) remove chassis from speaker cabinet (8 screws), disconnect red/black speaker wires from main PCB spade connectors.

2) Remove 4 screws attaching main pcb heatsink assembly from face panel - lift assembly from faceplate (a bit messy , much heartsink compound between mounting faces)

3) unplug the AC 3 pin connections adjacent to the large capacitors and the 3pin connector on end of pcb (near C52), then roll assembly over the top of the audio sub-board to access underside of pcb.

4) solder connections to C52 is accessible at edge of board without further dis-assembly.

Take extreme care replacing C52, as the circuit board is of poor quality, (usual domestic electronics quality) being single sided copper without plated through holes.

The board is already heat damaged by heat buildup from power supply resistors, so the track will most likely lift and crack when disturbed- to counter this problem link the +ve capacitor pigtail to an adjacent solder pad on the same track - and physicaly lock the body of the 47u capacitor to the adjacent large capacitor with glue or cable tie.

Assembly is reverse of above, take care to preserve/ensure minimum disturbance of heatsink compound.
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 10:32 pm    Post subject:

Goes to show you that despite what you may read or hear about a certain product, it is more likely not what is cracked up to be, especially in quality design.
Using a power resistor for DC step down in an audio gear? .. that is awful!
While I liked their speakers, I never cared much for their subs(& many other brands for that matter). While they look good & massive physically, the electronics inside is usually pretty dismal to say the least.
PostPosted: Tue Jun 02, 2009 3:58 pm    Post subject:

I have spent ages trying to sort mine, everything that could have gone wrong with it has. The resistors that people are saying are getting hot are suppose to. They are stepping the 55v down to about 20v for the 15v regulators, just a cheep nasty potential divider circuit. The bridge rectifier first fried on mine, then the power transistors went short circuit. Replaced all damaged parts but i have a feeling the problem may have run back to the signal board. I have never seen a power transistor fail in such a spectacular way. Even the transistor legs have melted!!! I have reversed engineered a schematic of the power/amp board and have realised that it is a not particularly well designed product. I have given up trying to mend it as every time I had got it working again it would just destroy itself again within weeks with a different or similar fault to all those of which have been mentioned on here. I am now in the process of designing some electronics that work for it and putting then in the existing enclosure. In conclusion dont bye a kef!
PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2008 5:37 pm    Post subject:

I have the same problem the relay ticking and the sound is crap.
Some one have this problem?
PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 5:58 pm    Post subject: ticking relay

i've noticed that this thread is old but....
i have a problem with my psw2500,it won't turn on.
there is a loud ticking noise from the relay,i replaced it and
its just the same.

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