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| Wolv |
 Posted: Wed Apr 25, 2007 5:22 am Post subject: |
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For what it's worth, or if anyone else comes across this. I have received 2 cards with the same cap detached. I do not believe you broke it as both of mine were this way in the package. It appears it was as said before, a poor sodering job to begin with and the cap doesn't need to be reattached.
I resodered one card just to see if I could do it and left the other off. I notified the manufacturer of their problem and they simply told me to run some tests (as I did already anyway, 3dmark and dxdiag) and all was well. |
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| Guest |
| Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 6:45 am Post subject: Broke A Capacitor Off Graphics Card, Need Advice Please. |
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If normally 12v at this location then you would fit a 100uf 16v 105deg radial subminiture electrolytic capacitor observing the polarity.
The next size up would be 25v and would work just as well be physically may be a bit large. |
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| smarty |
| Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 2:34 am Post subject: |
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| A 12V 100UF radial mount capacitor I meant. Or can you not get a 12V should I get a 16V. |
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| smarty |
| Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2006 2:31 am Post subject: |
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| Thanks for all the help there is no way that I can re-solder the surface mount capacitor as there is not enough room. I have measured the voltage and it is 12V. Yet this is DC the reading was just rubbish on AC, I do not know how a computer works. So I am looking for a 12V through board capacitor then? |
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| vtech |
| Posted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 9:58 am Post subject: |
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| There is no problem using radial mount. As far as the short legs, you need to have a small tip soldering iron & the way to do it is to apply a bit of solder flux on the traces & simply lay the cap back on the trace . You can reflow the solder by carefully touching the pad right up to the tiny leg of the capacitor. (Part of my daily job). |
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| smarty |
| Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 3:35 pm Post subject: |
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Yes the legs are still intact on the bottom of the capacitor, but there is next to no room to get a soldering iron in as the legs are very short and bent at right angles to the capacitors base. I am not to clued up this, is some special type of soldering iron needed to re-solder such parts when the space to work in is next to nothing. That is why I mentioned a radial mount capacitor instead. But as stated I am no expert  |
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| vtech |
| Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 5:30 am Post subject: |
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| Anonymous wrote: |
dEAR sMARTY
The part is either "decoupling" the voltage line or just smoothing the 12volt rail or 5 volt.So what i'm trying to say is that you do not need to replaced that
cap.  |
Correct, it is more likely a smoothing cap & proly be ok to leave off.
Looking at the picture of the cap, appears that you may still be able to solder it back in? (there are still legs/tabs left on the cap?). Have seen surface mounts simply fall off the boards mainly due to improper soldering from factory & this may be one. as long as the tabs are intact, it is easy to resolder
The black band is negative. |
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| Guest |
| Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 1:29 am Post subject: |
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dEAR sMARTY
The part is either "decoupling" the voltage line or just smoothing the 12volt rail or 5 volt.So what i'm trying to say is that you do not need to replaced that
cap. |
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| smarty |
| Posted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry I have updated the links they are working now. I have not measured the voltage as I have not got a voltmeter, although I could borrow one from work. Probably the best way. Take a look at the pics anyway, they work now  |
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| Guest |
| Posted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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| The links to the pictures say that the image is no longer there. I guess it may be supplied by the 12 volt rail, in which case a 16 volt capacitor may be O.K. What voltage do you measure? |
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