[shabshak]

Hi Willam please send me the pic i need also to fix half screen black up

[email protected]

[Lance]

OK... Now that I have read all the problems with the caps and the half screen problem mine is now doing it! I'm hoping that the screen jumping problem is related to the capacitors as well. I'm going to change them out and see... If anyone has any other suggestions as to why the screen would shrink and jump other than the caps please let me know...

Thanks again!

[Lance]

My 61MP1 keeps jumping and the screen will shrink to about 1/4 size then jump back to full screen. It does it on the component and DVI imputs. I have tried changing cables but since its doing it on multiple inputs I suspect its the TV and not the cables. Could this be related to the capacitor problem or would it be something else? I really like this TV and would hate to have to replace it if its something that can be repaired.

Thanks in advance.

[focusontheworld]

This worked fine for me from start to finish. The top half of the picture would go black after a few minutes on my Runco PL-61cx which is based on the NEC 61MP1. Following the instructions in the post did the trick. Thanks very much for saving me a ton of dough and the hassle of sending 150 lbs off for service especially when fixing an 8 year old plasma doesn't make a lot of sense. For those of you planning to do this yourself at home, it took me and my teenage son an hour to remove the set from the cabinet, set it out flat to work on and get to the 2 capacitors. Reassembly was a bit quicker. Thanks again. Tom.

[mlevy]

For the hell of it I replaced the two caps that have been called out as causing the half-screen problem. The amount of disassembly required to get to them is incredible. Hundreds of screws! But it was all for naught, I still have the pink blotch in the center of the screen on very light scenes, and it the scene lasts for more than a few seconds, the unit turns off. Anyone?

[mlevy]

I have a 7-year old 50MP1. On bright scenes, I get a pink splotch in the middle of the screen and sometimes it will shut off with a flashing red power indicator. Is this easily fixable? Could it be those caps that I've seen referenced in other posts?

[BPGuest]

Hi there - I'm the same with a 61MP1, top half of the screen goes blank. Could you send details to [email protected] please!

[pav]

Hi there - I'm in the same place - a faulty MP1 which switches on with a backlight but gives no picture whatsoever - any chance you can send me the cap location pictures to [email protected] thanks so much!

[veazeyg]

I need - help can you send pictures to [email protected]

[Guest]

William I got mine fixed. I will try and walk you through the process.
I recommend having a power screw driver (not a drill driver) lots of screws, bag and tag in ziplock bags. All References are REAR VIEW of set.
1. Remove the rear cover 2. remove the perforated large shield on the main board housing (almost in center). 3. Unplug the right top fan and temp sensor plugs ( two small plugs at the top of the main board). 4. Remove screwsthat secure the main board housing, there is also four screws by the video inputs. Do not unplug the board, just gently pull it away 6 to 8 inches. 5. Remove the cover with the Top fan attached (more screws). 6. Now the scan board for the top half of the screen is exposed. The board has four large heat sinks with two large Electrolytic aluminum caps next to each heat sink. 7. The problem caps are at the very top right side of the scan board C192 Nichicon 220 uf next to the IC, the other cap is C120 100UF on the lower side of the IC next to a heat sink. I replaced them without taking the board out. C192 is the one that failed, the other one tested OK but I replaced both.
I got the caps from Mouser.com they are 69 cents each, the Mouser part number for the 220Uf is: 647-UUD1C221MCL1GS (Nichicon 220uFm 16V 6.3x7.7 mm surface mount); the 100uF is:647-UUD1E101MCL (Nichicon 100uF 25V 6.3x7.7mm), both are 105 degree C. I bought two extra spares in case I need them for the future.
Reassemble the unit in the reverse order and you are done. Note if you test it without closing everything, make sure you have the main board shield back on, otherwise the screen will bleed due to the noise from the board. good luck! mine has been working fine.. just like new.. If you have an email address I can send you a photo of the scan board.. I'll check the posting the next few days.