[tt909090]

I recently had a problem with my TCL PDP4200BK plasma 42”

The fault was when you switched the TV on the red led light would flash blue, then a couple of min later the screen would switch itself off /on again.
This just started happening one day, so I took to the internet to find out more information on this subject. To my surprise after many hours of looking her there and everywhere I came to no avail. I did however discover many of the fixya sites who’s comments would just led to either replacement of all control boards and y-sus, zsus boards........ I thought this was an expensive route or simply book it in to a repair company. So I have made a quick guide on how I was able to fix my problem.

So here is the problem I have and how to resolve it cheaply........

1. You need to open the rear panel of the plasma to do this please make sure the TV is unplugged and situated flat on a work bench or flat surface.

2. Remove all screws on rear panel.


3. Locate the 4 external control buttons bottom right. Here there is a black cable connected / clipped to the board. Follow this cable from the buttons up until you reach the other connection on the control board (centre).


4. Unplug and enjoy, (please be aware plasmas use a very high DC voltage when striking so please test with care.

[train123]

I need some tips on my set. It is an Akai PDP4273M1 on the outside but the inside has a LG model # PDP42x32000. The YSUS board is 6871QYH953A and the ZSUS board is 3871QZH956A. Both boards have one fuse blown which supply the main power so I'm suspecting the main Drive IC's on both boards are gone. I hate to replace whole boards and would rather do board level repair (also keeps the cost down). Does anyone know the part numbers of the IC's and whether they are available?

[train123]

The caps are 33uF @50V or 33 microfarad with 50 volt rating. Replacing with the same surface mount equivalent is recommended but there is usually lots of room so you could fit a through-hole version using wire legs and bending the legs to fit the same spot.

[SoCAL]

This has been the most informative Forum I have seen on this topic. Very thankful for the sharing of knowledge. Now that I am done complementing, I will ask for help.

I have the same YSUS board mentioned 6871QYH953A and first had the a blown fuse to fix, then noticed a blown Capacitor.

Anyone help me find more details about this little guy: on the board it is C102 or C98 or C108 with these markings:

43357
33
50F

Thanks in advance for the Help in Identifying this CAP. Current EBAY price on YSUS is like $125 & up.

[Tushy]

I don't really check this site but today I posted a new question about another TV.

If it's the same problem as mine (which I think is quite likely), you blew a fuse on the Y-sus board. I'm not that electronically inclined and changing a board is really quite easy. The biggest pain is the 37 screws to get to the boards.

If you have a voltmeter you can verify this by checking each fuse for continuity.

Once the back panel is off, you'll see 3 main boards about 12" x 12" each. The one on the left is the y-sus (it should say it on the white LG label), the center is the power board and right is the z-sus.

If one of the fuses on the Y-sus are blown (there are two), I would replace this board. There will be part numbers printed on the board itself and on the white label stuck on it. I think that the following are also compatable boards:

Y-SUS: 6871QYH953A 6870qyh005B 6871QYH053B EAX31974801 ? EBR31872801 ? EBR32642701 Akai - 6870QYH105B vizio - EAX31631001 EBR32642702 1032298-hs

If it is the Y-sus, before you remove the board, you may want to note the position of one of the adjustment pots that is hidden by the support bracket. There is no way to adjust this with the board in place. I think I mentioned this earlier in this post but what I did was mark the bracket where the adjustment pot is, removed the board and drilled a hole in the bracket large enough for a small screwdriver so I could adjust it with the board in place.

Before installing a new board, mark the factory settings of the 4 pots with a sharpie before you try to tweak anything.

Good luck.

Tushy

[shawno]

tushy, is there anywhere i can get the schematics so i know what and where the parts you changed are?

[shawno]

tushy, my audiovox tv did exactly the same thing this morning, i was watching it and it shut off, when i turned it back on i had only audio, the set isnt even 2 years old. i am not as electrically inclined as you are, i dont know if i will be able to fix it. that sucks 2400$ down the tube.

[Tushy]

This post is basically for anyone that stumbles across it trying to fix what seems like two fairly common problems with plasma tvs. I apologize for the length of it but hopes it can help others.

To start off, I got a free Audiovox FPE4216P 42" Plasma TV.

The previous owner said that there was a red cloud in the top center that after time spread across the top and down the center of the screen. Some time later, they were watching it and it was as if someone simply turned the power off. After that, there was no longer any picture - menu or otherwise.

After much research on the net, it seems that fixing plasma TVs is strongly based on the educational guess method. This compounded by the fact that replacement parts are quite scarce and generally crappy customer service provided by the manufacturer if the TV is older than 14 months basically makes many of these TVs $2000 doorstops if something goes wrong with them. Luckily, my TV uses many LG boards which seem to be used in a number of different makes and models.

NO DISPLAY ISSUE:

Once I took the set apart, I first checked the power coming into it and it checked out ok. I then found a fuse on the YSUS board that had blown, upon replacing it, I no longer had sound. The indicator light on the front would turn from red to blue for about 3 min then back to red. After this happened, the LED on the power board would light up and the there was no longer any response from the power button (led on front would only stay red). I would have to unplug the set and plug it back in to duplicate the above.

I then checked the voltages for Vs, Va and 5v on the connectors coming off the power board (using the DC setting on a voltmeter) against the specs on the sticker on the back of the display panel and they checked out.

It was recommended by Minnie and others that I change the YSUS board since the fuse had blown on that board. This seemed counter-intuitive to me since it seemed that the power was fed into the YSUS board through that fuse first as if to protect the YSUS board.

With reluctance, I purchased a "new" YSUS board. Once I popped it in - presto! I had picture! But picture with a cloudy, sparkly red "I" beam that would show through the dark areas of images including the menu screens. It seemed that as long as there was a color over where the "I" beam ran, it was fine and there was only a problem when the image was supposed to be black.

RED DOTS - SPARKLES - SPECKLES - and possibly MAL DISCHARGE ISSUE:

I say possibly mal discharge because it seems that some label this problem as such where some describe mal discharge as another problem.

After much research on the net (again), it seems that there are two fixes for this problem: 1 - a new control board and 2 - adjusting the voltages. It seems that each fix has about a 30 - 50% success rate. With the first fix, you just pop in a new board and you could be done or you could have the same problem. With the second fix, people have said that the dots have gone but the image is now crappy or they have different color dots. Some also say that merely changing voltages will only temporarily fix it. I opted for the cheaper second fix.

My power board has two potentiometers (pots) on it (adjustable dial thingies). One for the Vs and one for the Va. I first made sure that these were adjusted to spec. I took readings off of the molex connector and grounded to the support bracket of the set.

My YSUS board has 4 pots, two are labeled SetUp and SetDn and the other two are on little circuit boards rising off the YSUS board - one of which was completely inaccessible due to it's position behind the support bracket.

I first set the TV to an empty input since the red showed best against all black. Jacking up the SetUp pot seemed to have the effect of making the black really black and essentially removing the red. SetDn didn't seem to due much and I didn't mess with the other pots. When I switched to an active source everything looked great but then I started to notice that on bright images that weren't quite white, there was blotchy pixelation and redness. It then started messing with all three accessible pots and got the image to be really good but I could still see some red and now blue sparkles in the dark areas.

I was pretty satisfied with my results but there was that one other pot that I could not get to unless I removed the YSUS board. Since I knew I would have to adjust that pot multiple times, I decided to remove the board and drill a small hole in the support bracket to gain access to the pot with the board installed. For me, this was the most difficult and frightening part. I didn't want to damage the panel itself and I also didn't want to get metal shavings everywhere. I carefully masked off the area and nearby boards with paper and when I drilled I held a piece of wood behind the bracket.

I then had access to all 4 pots and just kept messing with different balances between them. I used an empty input to check the black and numerous DVD's to look for crappy picture on lighter areas. As it turns out, the menu for the Underdog DVD really showed the light image flaws.

Now, the image is about 98% perfect. When a lighter image turns to complete black, there are some, extremely diffuse red and blue brief pixel flashes (just for a millisecond) but then the black stays black. To notice it, you have to be within 3 or 4 feet of the TV which I think is too close anyway for a 42" TV and is virtually non-existent when watching DVDs.

Here is some extra part number info with possible equivalents:

YSUS: 6871QYH953A or 6870qyh005B and possibly 6871QYH053B EAX31974801 EBR31872801 EBR32642701 6870QYH105B EAX31631001 EBR32642702 1032298-hs

Control Board: 6871qch977b or 6870qch0C6b and possibly 6870qch006b 6871QCH077B 5070-5623

Power Supply Board: 667-PH42FB6-20 or 782-PH42D8-200a and possibly 6FB0192010

Thanks for all your help Minnie!!!

[mthenife]

[quote="Anonymous"]Yes, sorry not logged in![/quote]only 18 months old, quit all of a sudden. Powers up but has no picture/no sound. Found a blown 4ah fuse on the ysus board. Swapped fuse and powered it up. the green light came on for a few seconds and went out. a few seconds later the red light went out also.If i unplug the ysus board the set will stay powered up. Any suggestions?[code][/code]

[Tushy]

I got a used one for $41 + $10 shipping.

Before I found this one, they seem to be going from $109 - $200.

Still coming back to post a summary. Too busy right now watching lots of TV!