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Graeme
Joined: 05 Nov 2007 Posts: 10
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Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 2:06 am Post subject: Pioneer 5-disc DVD player drawer fault |
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Hi.
Pioneer 5-disc DVD changer, model # XV-HTD1
Plays discs fine, but drawer won't stay open.
If you press the OPEN/CLOSE button, the disc unloads fine, and the drawer ejects fine, but as soon as it is fully open, it closes immediately again.
You can keep this going continuously, by pressing the OPEN/CLOSE button, so I don't think this is a controller fault, more likely the open/close sensor switch.
Would anyone here agree, or like to suggest another likely cause?
I don't want to pull the deck to bits to get to the open/close switch/sensor unless someone else agrees with me, as this takes time, and if I am not on the right track, it's a waste of time...
Thanks.
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vtech
Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1264 Location: USA
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Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 5:37 am Post subject: |
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Typical problem with the tray switch that is mounted on the bottom of the tray
It was used on several models. Also sometimes it is the actuall solder joints from the switch to the connecting board. You can use a spray cleaner to clean it
---very easy... also known as one of the "gravy fix's" |
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Guest
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Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 2:56 am Post subject: |
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Great.
Thanks for the confirmation.
I'll get to work on it now...
Re: Switch, yeah, I have not been able to find another one - it's an odd looking thing with a blue lever on it.
My trade suppliers do not stock it, and think if it can't be fixed with contact cleaner, I would have to order one in from Pioneer overseas... |
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vtech
Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1264 Location: USA
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Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 3:40 am Post subject: |
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Was it the switch or the connections where it is soldered? Ought to look very close. In years of dealing with them, hardly ever had to replace one.
Always had good luck with Cramoline (or any other cleaner). Just working it back & forth would always cleared the tarnished contacts.
The particular blue handled switch (made by Alps) is actually an obsolete piece and even if it was available, would probably be just as oxidized due to exposure/age. |
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Graeme
Joined: 05 Nov 2007 Posts: 10
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Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 12:40 am Post subject: |
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Actually have not been able to get to the switch - yet.
It is BURIED inside and inbetween about a ton of plastic.
I have the deck out, but the only way to get to this switch, is to remove the whole drawer assembly, which I am reluctant to do, as if you mess up the gear-timing, it will take HOURS to re-align the correct timing - I don't have a service manual for this unit.
At this stage, I have marked a couple of gears for correct alignment, and am preparing to disassemble the drawer mech, but I really don't want to.
There are two of these little blue-lever switches - one you can get at easily, it is just in front of the laser assembly and it's associated disc spindle motor.
This one is labeled "CLAMP SW", if that helps...
Seems to me, to be the switch telling the logic board when any disc is loaded and ready to spin-up.
The other blue-lever switch, is below this, and to the left, buried under the actual drawer itself.
I have tried simply turning the drawer motor(with cables disconnected from the logic board!), so that the drawer opens, but you cannot access this switch with the drawer open or closed. It would seem to make things difficult, you have to physically remove the drawer from it's associated gears and motor drive, in order to get at the open/close switch at all.
Have you(or anyone else reading this) seen this kind of "buried switch" before, or are they normally easier then that to get to?
(I would have thought so...) |
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Graeme
Joined: 05 Nov 2007 Posts: 10
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Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 1:01 am Post subject: |
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OK, with drawer fully open, I was able to get the tube from the can of "Contact Cleaner" in there, and give the switch a good squirt.
I have moved the switch back and forth, with a long, thin screwdriver.
I have re-wet the solder contacts.
Managed to do that without melting any plastic.
This switch is labeled: "POS SW 1", which I assume means drawer position switch, or open/close switch, and DEFINITELY is pushed when the tray is fully open, so I think I am dealing to the correct one.
I have squirted the other(easy to get at) lever switch too.
I will reassemble, and see what happens. |
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vtech
Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1264 Location: USA
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Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 2:17 am Post subject: |
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Ok First, thumbs up to your determination in getting to the switch
Yes the switch in question is under the tray & appears to be impossible to get at.
Eventhough you may have already managed it, it is an easy process if/when
you know how;
NO need to disassemble/mark any gears or worry about any timing whatsoever(hope it's not too late).
All you have to do is to release the tray from it's rails. the trick is to get to the two plastic tabs that limit the outward travel of the tray.Tabs are actually made on to the rail ends, BUT can be accessed thru two cutaway slots from the top of the tray.
1) pulll the tray all the way out 2) rotate the spinning portion just enough to expose the two small opening slots on the front edge . The two tabs can now be spread out just enough to allow the tray to pull out & up away from the rails. to reinstall is to reverse the procedure. |
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Graeme
Joined: 05 Nov 2007 Posts: 10
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Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 2:50 am Post subject: |
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Hi.
Thanks for your help, btw - many people read forums, but don't post replies, so thanks.
Yes, I spotted those clips, but was a little paranoid about relative gear/teeth positioning.
In VCR service(which I also do), correct alignment is VITAL.
A good example being the mode-switch, and it's installation position, relative to the deck state - put it in one or two teeth out of alignment...
Most VCR's have alignment marks though.
Sorry, I digress...
I kind of carried that knowledge over to this DVD drawer...
Perhaps I was being over cautious, but better that I thought, then to rush the job, and totally muck it up!!!
It's all back together on the bench now, and has been playing discs for the last hour or so. I have ejected the drawer several times, and it stays out now, until commanded to go back in.
Hopefully, and based on your comments, the contact cleaner should have fixed this. I could not locate a new switch here anyway, so looks like this is the best way to fix it. |
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vtech
Joined: 08 May 2006 Posts: 1264 Location: USA
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Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 3:07 am Post subject: |
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Should be ok.
Good idea about being cautious on timing /gear tooth etc.
For your info, for this particular procedure, you will not have to do worry about any timing issue. Specifically designed to be independent from gear timing in this case. |
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Graeme
Joined: 05 Nov 2007 Posts: 10
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Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 3:22 am Post subject: |
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Thanks.
I have printed this thread, for future reference.
I note your comments about gear timing with respect to this fault.
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