Interlude IL60

jts1957 · Joined: 24 Nov 2008 Posts: 2476 Location: Far, Far Away

L1 or D5 (or a foil trace). Wink

Z4 unlikely, cause you say you have AC input.
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inthehunt2 · Joined: 17 Jul 2011 Posts: 7

OK... the embarrassing part first... When I checked the output of the power rectifier, I was using AC on the volt meter. My bad... Switched to DC and it read fine.

I did find the culprit however. It was the connection from the rectifier PWB to the BASH PWB (IN+ & IN-). Loose connection. Tighten the crimp and off it went.

Back to sounding awesome!

macwylie · Guest

Just wanted to say thanks for the people who posted here. I was able to repair both of the IL60s I bought from a neighbor by replacing the R509. It was my first circuit board repair ever. I was skeptical that I could do it, but your posts helped guide me and now I've got two working speakers!

Thanks

JohnQDough · Joined: 06 Jul 2012 Posts: 2

Hey all, I'm late to the party, but I'm having the same problem described in the earlier posts. I'm a circuit board virgin, but I have a pal that has slightly more experience, which isn't saying much. So, I (obviously) have a few questions:

1. Is replacing the R509 resistor something that we can reasonably undertake?

2. Is there anything difficult about getting to the circuit board?

3. Can someone please show me exactly what part to order? I did searches on digikey and mouser for "R509" and was unable to narrow it down to the part pictured.

4. Any other tips to help a noob are very welcome.

Thanks!

jts1957 · Joined: 24 Nov 2008 Posts: 2476 Location: Far, Far Away

If you've read this thread from the beginning the answers to your questions are mostly there already. ("value" & physical location of R509)
Can't say as to ease as I've never actually done "this" repair. Depends on your abilities/aptitude.
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MiniZorg · Joined: 11 Jul 2012 Posts: 1 Location: United States

Guest · Posted: Wed Jul 11, 2012 5:49 pm Post subject: Re: Interlude IL60

JohnQDough · Joined: 06 Jul 2012 Posts: 2

Well, I went ahead and did the replacement all by myself and I'm happy to say that, as of this moment, the problem is fixed! It's sooooo satisfying to know that I fixed this problem for a total of $12, which includes the cost of a soldering iron. Very Happy

airtower · Guest

Thanks so much to the OP for bringing this fix up. I've been sitting on a set of IL50's for about 5 years now with broken subwoofers. Albeit the IL50 is slight different internally, it is the same resistor that was at fault (located at R22 on the IL50 - see the IL50 service manual).

I was able to replace both within the timespan of about 45 minutes. I have only hobbyist experience with soldering and this was my first PCB repair. If you have a rudimentary understanding of how a soldering iron works, you can perform this repair.

That all being said, I still have no output in my right subwoofer. The LED illuminates green when it receives speaker-level signals, but no output. Left channel is good. The service manual indicates a secondary fix for no-light, no output, but I have the light. I have little understanding of schematics and circuits, but can anyone offer any advice on what else I can check? I do not have a DMM at this time, but I suspect I will need to get one.

pgilley984 · Guest

this thread was incredibly helpful - this fixed my sub.

thanks to all who contributed!

-Patrick