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philips tp3281 TV

 
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pamminger



Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 4
Location: memphis, tn

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 3:10 pm    Post subject: philips tp3281 TV Reply with quote

Hello -

Does anyone out there have a copy of a service manual for a philips tp3281 c101 TV or the schematics for the 32d700-7570 chassis they would be willing to share? Or possibly know what the error code on the power LED represents that is continous 5 flashes pause then repeat.

Found a burnt capacitor pF820 2V at position 2633/2644 on the main board which I replaced with a 3kV unit. I have 120 Vdc at the center pin of the 'HOT', but still the set fails to start: clicks once and then nothing except the flashing at the LED.

Would like very much to get the set back working and any help would greatly be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your time!

Sincerely, Peter
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you have big problem i never had a 820 pfd blow up and are u sure of 2v i don't think they make that low voltage for 820pfd. your problem is somewhere else i suspect the power supply look for bulgy caps and also leds can also come on if the vco is out of range the hi voltage fails without a road map is hard to tell. good luck.
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pamminger



Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 4
Location: memphis, tn

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi there -

cap was a 2 kV replaced with a 3 kV which is a relatively high voltage. apparently this capacitor failing is a common prblm with this particular set. no i don't have a 'road map' and thus the request if anyone had one available.
why do you think the prblm would be with the power supply if the horizontal output transistor has 120 volt dc coming to it?
no other components are visual damaged appearing. what do you mean with the vco?
thanks for your response! if you have any other ideas please don't hesitate
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minnie



Joined: 18 Aug 2005
Posts: 2877
Location: Hell

PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the horizontal out put transistor shorted???
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pamminger



Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 4
Location: memphis, tn

PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi-

Well I quess that is what I'm having trouble with: exactly how does one correctly test the HOT? I've got a simple voltmeter and can probably get my hands on a more advanced one if needed. Please advise; Thanks for your response and time!

Sincerely, Peter
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gary



Joined: 05 Apr 2005
Posts: 584
Location: MANCHESTER, uk

PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dont know the chassis as it is not uk, however i have had a similar problem with the md1 philips tv, the disc capacitor across line output goes s/c due to insufficient rating, the cure is to replace with a 3kv version as you have done, however when the cap dies it often destroys a component in the protection circuit called the "line switch", this is an fet, ref 7480 in the md1, its job is to prevent the line stage being supplied with ht until the micro has checked line drive is correct and all voltages are present, when this fet goes faulty the line stage starts before it should and the micro detects this as an error and shuts the set down, may not be applicable to your set but worth investigating, typical philips over engineering.
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pamminger



Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 4
Location: memphis, tn

PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 6:29 pm    Post subject: H.O.T. test results Reply with quote

The H.O.T has 3 pins. I assume that from left to right, the first pin is (B)the base. The middle pin is (C)the collector, and the last pin on the right is (E) the emitter. I first tested the H.O.T. using the analog MM in a 10 ohm setting. There can only be 6 combinations with the test readings as follows where continuity = 0 or some measurable ohms of resistance; no continuity = infinite resistance:
Red lead of mm to B, Black lead of mm to C; the reading is no continuity
Black lead of mm to B, Red lead of mm to C; the reading is + continuity
Red lead of mm to B, Black lead of mm to E; the reading is +continuity
Black lead of mm to B, Red lead of mm to E; the reading is +continuity
Red lead of mm to C, Black lead of mm to E; the reading is + continuity
Black lead of mm to C, Red lead of mm to E; the reading is no continuity
Next the six various combinations were then tested with a digital MM set into the diode testing mode where non-touching leads display a reading of 1 and when the leads are touching the device reads 0:
Red lead of dmm to B, Black lead of dmm to C; the reading is .426
Black lead of dmm to B, Red lead of dmm to C; the reading is 1
Red lead of dmm to B, Black lead of dmm to E; the reading is 0
Black lead of dmm to B, Red lead of dmm to E; the reading is 0
Red lead of dmm to C, Black lead of dmm to E; the reading is 1
Black lead of dmm to C, Red lead of dmm to E; the reading is .426

I am not sure exactly what these results represent! Based on the above test results, is the H.O.T. is good or bad? Would appreciate any feed back.

Thanks, peter
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minnie



Joined: 18 Aug 2005
Posts: 2877
Location: Hell

PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Emitter to collector you should read a short. Base to collector high/low same with base to emitter. If ant point you read a short between base/emitter or base/collector it's junk.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A HOT is not a normal transistor, it may have a diode and a couple of resistors connected inside.
Read the transistor number and search for it's datasheet with a search engine. The manufacturer and others provide the datasheets as a free download.
Put your model number or chassis number in a search engine and see what it turns up. If it is a common fault someone may have already solved this problem.
My final suggestion is a site with more general information on repair of tv's and such, have a look around it. (it won't let me post the website link)
Let us know how you go. Smile
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