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_ASH_
Joined: 09 Dec 2011 Posts: 8
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Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 2:46 am Post subject: |
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Hi Guy's... Someone please help me.
I have replaced the following:
ZD4, CS21, CS22, R65
Everything worked fine but with a ticking noise (about every second), I then checked the power supply & ZD4 was really hot (to the point it had broke the solder, I now have the problem where if ZD4 is soldered in or desoldered and power it up, the light flashes red, Amber, then green, then straight back to red. but if I keep pressing the standby button (about 10 times) the green light stays on and the tv powers up.
Can someone please give me an idea where to look as I have been therough the board several times and can't see anything wrong.. I would appreciate help ASAP as I need to sell this to make some space.
Many thanks in advance
ASH _________________ ASH |
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minnie-me
Joined: 15 Oct 2008 Posts: 17 Location: Mississauga
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Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 3:51 pm Post subject: Power supply |
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If you changed out ZD4, you also have to change Q7. Sounds like ZD4 is damaged again. Q7 can be subbed with another transistor. Look back on this thread for info. With a good repair, there will be no heating in this area and the 5 volt standby supply will be solid and stable. |
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Guest
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 12:50 am Post subject: |
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Hi Guy's, I replaced Q7 (which didn't show any signs of any damage), but after leaving the tv on for several hours I have the same problem as fidget where a tiny blue/green line goes part way down the screen.
I find it strange that this never happened before (the TV worked perfectly)
Can anyone please give me some ideas
Many thanks in advance..
Ash |
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minnie-me
Joined: 15 Oct 2008 Posts: 17 Location: Mississauga
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 1:21 am Post subject: Power supply |
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So, the set is powering up ok now? Then the power supply is fixed.
The line on the screen is a new problem. |
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_ASH_
Joined: 09 Dec 2011 Posts: 8
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 8:44 am Post subject: |
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Yes Mate, The power is all sorted now (it works perfect).
The green line was never on the screen before and suddenly it appeared after the TV had been on for a few hours.
Many thanks (& sorry for not being logged in on my last post)
ASH |
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ebarron
Joined: 08 Feb 2012 Posts: 1
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Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2012 7:02 am Post subject: Help a electronics newbie out? |
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I managed to get ahold of two N2635W displays that are using this FSP212-3F01 power supply. I have replaced 6 blown caps on one PS and 5 blown ones on the other. The first worked for about 12 hours while the other worked for about 30 seconds. Now they both have the same result, a blinking amber LED.
In looking at the back side of the power supplies I can see that R65 looks dead, and ZD4 doesn't look good. So I plan on replacing those along with Q7 based on all the posts that I have read so far.
Now I found in previous threads the values for each component, but when I look at the parts at DigiKey I am afraid that I am going to order the wrong ones. The number of parts is daunting for the newbiew such as me.
The kits on Ebay don't have ZD4 or R65.
ZD4 - According to loudi is a ZD4 is a 15V zenner (400mW). While this looks like it fits the bill (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/PDZ15B,115/568-6444-1-ND/2531731) it looks nothing like the one on the board. Will it work?
Q7 - According to loudi is a MMBT4401LT1G NPN 600mA transistor.
Is this the correct part? (http://search.digikey.com/us/en/products/MMBT4401LT1G/MMBT4401LT1GOSCT-ND/1139819)
R65 - According to guest is "R65 = 5R1 which is a 5 ohm res". when I search for this on DigiKey I end up with 6 pages of resisters of various sizes and I don't have anything that can measure in fractions of a millimeter? Does anyone know what size it is?
And one last question. Does orientation matter for ZD4 or R65?
Thanks,
Erik |
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minnie-me
Joined: 15 Oct 2008 Posts: 17 Location: Mississauga
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Posted: Wed Feb 08, 2012 1:56 pm Post subject: 5 volt standby problem |
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First of all, replace all the caps that are the crappy brand, except the high voltage one on the primary incoming power. The ones you didn't replace will fail a little later and you will have to re-open the set again.
Next, the resistor is 5.1 ohm, a standard value. You can use a 1/4 watt resistor. Just bend the leads, insulate them and tack solder to the original pads. Does not matter which lead goes where.
The zener does matter where you put each lead. The original may have a line mark on one end. The replacement should be oriented the same way.
The transistor can be subbed with a plastic case standard one, like 2N4401. Check back in the posts to confirm this part number. This is trickier as it has 3 leads and does not match the original surface mount part. Do a google search for the E,B,C orientation of the 2 transistor case styles and bend the leads to match the pads.
Good luck. |
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Makas Guest
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Posted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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Hi everyone , i have FSP212-3F01 board and i replace Q2 and Q2 transistor and all caps . Now I have problem , when i put board in, then connectall cable when i turn on power, no light flash , its seems like no power then I took of the board again and look for 5v, 12v, 24v i didint finde cns1 and cns2 any power. Can someone help my ?
Fuse is oky.
Beforethisproblem ,when I replace all caps , my fuse was keep blowing , then i found that Q2 and Q1 vas dead , when I change fuse was oky , but now stil TV not working ... Help
Sorry for my English speling . |
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train123
Joined: 26 Jan 2010 Posts: 88 Location: Canada
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Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 12:54 am Post subject: |
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Did you read the other posts regarding power? Read the posts and check ZD4 and Q7. |
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urmas Guest
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Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 11:07 am Post subject: Re: viewsonic n3260w |
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fidget wrote: | hi. i have read through and cannot find anyone that has had the same problem. i plug this tv in and the red led light on the front just flash's. tv will not turn on.
have repaced all the blown caps on the psu (fsb228-3f01) caps replaced were cs21 cs22 cs28 cs20 cs27 cs23 cs19 cs24 and cs25.
changing these made no difference to the tv, light still flashing.
anyone know what i should look at changing now? i feel it is a fault on the 5v side but don't know what component to look at as they all look ok.
any help will be great. |
Replace CS17 |
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