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Samsung SP42W5HF Rear Projection TV Problem.
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DejaVu



Joined: 02 Jul 2007
Posts: 93

PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the manual etc from here.

The full model I have is SP42W5HFX/XEU
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DejaVu



Joined: 02 Jul 2007
Posts: 93

PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2008 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dunno how helpful this is, but I've taken some images and uploaded them.

They are at -
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a88/DejaVuAtGesh/Photo-0042.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a88/DejaVuAtGesh/Photo-0043.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a88/DejaVuAtGesh/Photo-0044.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a88/DejaVuAtGesh/Photo-0046.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a88/DejaVuAtGesh/Photo-0047.jpg

It might give some idea's I guess. Smile

The board in question is a

AA41-00340C
Date: 2001.04.25

Manuals from here for this Model...
http://www.ticklesticks.co.uk/0.Cover.pdf
http://www.ticklesticks.co.uk/1.Alignment_and_Adjustments.pdf
http://www.ticklesticks.co.uk/2.Exploded_View_&_Parts_List.pdf
http://www.ticklesticks.co.uk/3.Electrical_Parts_List.pdf
http://www.ticklesticks.co.uk/4.PCB_Diagrams.pdf
http://www.ticklesticks.co.uk/5.Schematic_Diagrams.pdf
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minnie



Joined: 18 Aug 2005
Posts: 2880
Location: Hell

PostPosted: Sun Apr 20, 2008 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.ticklesticks.co.uk/5.Schematic_Diagrams.pdf

I need you to pull up this schematic. Look at the + and - 20vdc lines on the print for the convergence ic's (5-18 CG AMP). FD102S and FD101S are your pico fuse's for the -20vdc line. It should read like any fuse, a short. It's a 3.5 amp, use a 4 amp. Then go to 5-8 sub. This is the power supply. Look at T801S pin 18. This is the +20vdc. The fuse/pico is FD855S. 10 amp. Check these 3 and that should get you going again.
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Guest






PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've checked FD102S and FD101S pico fuses and both are fine. Can confirm they are most definately 3.5Amps still! Wink

Onto the Power board now. Will check the one you mentioned.
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DejaVu



Joined: 02 Jul 2007
Posts: 93

PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now checked all 3 fuses. They are all functioning perfectly.

Noticed in the schematic drawing though, STK392-010. I replaced with STK392-040 as they were what were in it.

Although I cannot guarantee they have not been attempted replacement before...
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DejaVu



Joined: 02 Jul 2007
Posts: 93

PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 1:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My bad. Just checked the forum elsewhere and it shouldnt matter about the IC's being 010 or 040's. It's to do with Wattage or something Wink

I can only decifer then, unless you have another theory minnie that I've been sold knackered IC's.

Strange how the problem looks exactly the same as the previous IC's though..!

Not gonna put the set back together just yet... Just incase! Wink
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Guest






PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 4:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Didn't log in, or it could be the DCU.
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Guest






PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 4:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, replace the IC's from a good vendor. As long as you checked all the 3.3 ohm resistors, Other wise it has to be the DCU>
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DejaVu



Joined: 02 Jul 2007
Posts: 93

PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont think replacing the IC's from another Vendor is a good idea until I've checked for certain that they are going to work.

I dont really fancy throwing another £100 ($200) down the drain until I'm quite certain the IC's are going to work.

How would I go about testing to make sure the 'DCU' is operational?
I gather a DCU unit would be located on the PSU somewhere's.

As for the resistors, I've checked all the resistors in the region of the Convergence heatsinks and they are all fine as far as I can see. Am double checking them all today though.
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DejaVu



Joined: 02 Jul 2007
Posts: 93

PostPosted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've checked the resistors and most seem fine.

I'm a little cofused with 12 of the larger ones marked as Brown/Green/Brown/Gold

If my calcualtion is correct, this equates to

Brown 1
Green 5
Brown X10
Gold

= 15 x 10 = 150 +/- 5% (142.5 or 157.5)

When measuring them though, they are showing as 75... Normal? Is there a component here somplace that divides these by 2 and this is indeed correct?

These are the resistors directly in front of the Heatsinks in this picture
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a88/DejaVuAtGesh/Photo-0046.jpg (the larger ones)
(RZ129, RZ129A, RZ130, RZ130A, RZ131, RZ131A, RZ132, RZ132A, RZ148, RZ148A, RZ149 & RZ149A)

I've sussed CZ's are capacitor's, RZ's are resistors, FD's are fuses.
But what are R's or LZ's - They too look similar to Resistors...?

Learning a lot with this though and am thinking about getting more involved!
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