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Mysterious repeating dimmer failure

 
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jon1270



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 8:52 pm    Post subject: Mysterious repeating dimmer failure Reply with quote

This is my first post here. I hope the topic is appropriate to the forum.

When I remodeled my kitchen about a year and a half ago, I installed nine line-voltage 4" recessed lights which are controlled by two Leviton Illlumatech preset dimmers, with three cans/150W on one dimmer and six cans/300W on the other (these are 600W dimmers). Everything works fine, except that when a bulb burns out there's a better-than-even chance it will take the dimmer with it. A dimmer has failed three of the four times that a bulb has burned out since the initial installation. Only the slide dimmer fails -- the on/off button continues to work normally.

Leviton has been replacing the dimmers as I mail them in, but their tech support people are, so far, unable to imagine how a bulb's burning out could cause the dimmer to fail. They've speculated that it could be a problem with a fixture or a loose connection, neither of which ideas holds water; the failures have all been simultaneous with burn-outs in different fixtures, and there are no symptoms of loose connections anywhere.

I'm hoping someone here has a brilliant insight to offer. The bulbs, if it matters, are Sylvania 50W PAR20s.
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vtech



Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1264
Location: USA

PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would be hard to tell without more data....from what is available in today's cheap market, I'd probably call it a cheap/limited design on the part of the dimmer.
Ofcourse the sure way to tell is to examine the failed device which is not possible for the average consumer & no doubt is a futile attempt to get that type of info from Leviton.

Have you tried going to a beefier wattage dimmer or maybe reducing the number of bulbs(loads) --just to see if it makes any difference?
better yet, if possible, try getting use to bringing up the lights slow while avoiding full tilt as a habit. you will be suprised how much longer a light bulb will last.

By dimmer failure, do you mean it stops controlling or simply won't turn back on? Again I can't be sure but it sounds like as the bulb burns out, it may be shooting back a spike to the SCR or control ckt within the dimmer?
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The failure is such that the on/off button still works fine but the slide dimmer has no effect; the lights are either on full-brightness or off.

No, I haven't tried reducing the load, but each dimmer's normal load is half (or less) of its rated capacity.
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vtech



Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1264
Location: USA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 3:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anonymous wrote:
The failure is such that the on/off button still works fine but the slide dimmer has no effect; the lights are either on full-brightness or off.

No, I haven't tried reducing the load, but each dimmer's normal load is half (or less) of its rated capacity.


Ok, I was aware of the ratings . no doubt it is affecting the control circuitry when the bulb burns out, it causes an instant overdraw & damages the triac/scr.
Rather than reducing the load, try bringing upslow/no full settings for a while & see if it makes any difference.
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minnie



Joined: 18 Aug 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 3:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leviton has no excuse. The switch works but the variable portion doesn't cut it. The 'switch' isn't really bad. It turns it on and of. But you can't dim. 3 in a row? E=IXR. Ohms law. Seems the bulb burns out and fries the slider. But yet you can still turn on and off. Call it a rheostat. The slider decreases the voltage through resistance to the source/lamp. It fries when the lamp goes.??? vtech???
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vtech



Joined: 08 May 2006
Posts: 1264
Location: USA

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 5:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

minnie wrote:
Leviton has no excuse. The switch works but the variable portion doesn't cut it. The 'switch' isn't really bad. It turns it on and of. But you can't dim. 3 in a row? E=IXR. Ohms law. Seems the bulb burns out and fries the slider. But yet you can still turn on and off. Call it a rheostat. The slider decreases the voltage through resistance to the source/lamp. It fries when the lamp goes.??? vtech???


No... that is not how the dimmer works
on/off only supplies the AC to Scr/triac. SCR/Triac controls the dimming opertation of the bulb by means of controlling the gate current. What happense is when/if there is a lamp failure, the momentarily filament excess current draw thru the triac will cause it to short out. The purpose of the slider is ONLy to control the gate current. When the SCR/Triac is damaged, the whole unit is nothing but an on/off switch.
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torbjorn



Joined: 07 Jun 2007
Posts: 370
Location: Sweden

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is very common that when a light bulb burns out, it causes a temporary short circuit due to arcing. This short circuit current would certainly cause the SCR of a cheap dimmer to fail unless it is limited in some way.
At least here in Europe, with 230 V mains voltage, all light dimmers are equipped with a fast-blow fuse. But i don't know what the practice is like in 120 V countries like the USA.
Usually, the fuse will protect the SCR, but it should NOT be replaced by a slow-blow fuse.

Another possibility is that inductive kickback from a RF suppression coil in the dimmer causes the SCR to fail due to overvoltage or due to a fast voltage transient when the short circuit current is interrupted. In this case, it would be possible to protect the SCR by a varistor and/or a RC snubber network in parallel to it.

Another possible way of protection would be to connect a current limiting resistor in series with each bulb, select the resistor to give, for example 5 % voltage drop at rated current of the bulb, so will the short circuit current be limited to 20 x each bulb's rated current. Make sure to have a fuse in series with each bulb + resistor, to avoid overheating the resistor and causing fire in case of a permanent short circuit.
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minnie



Joined: 18 Aug 2005
Posts: 2880
Location: Hell

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vtech wrote:
minnie wrote:
Leviton has no excuse. The switch works but the variable portion doesn't cut it. The 'switch' isn't really bad. It turns it on and of. But you can't dim. 3 in a row? E=IXR. Ohms law. Seems the bulb burns out and fries the slider. But yet you can still turn on and off. Call it a rheostat. The slider decreases the voltage through resistance to the source/lamp. It fries when the lamp goes.??? vtech???


No... that is not how the dimmer works
on/off only supplies the AC to Scr/triac. SCR/Triac controls the dimming opertation of the bulb by means of controlling the gate current. What happense is when/if there is a lamp failure, the momentarily filament excess current draw thru the triac will cause it to short out. The purpose of the slider is ONLy to control the gate current. When the SCR/Triac is damaged, the whole unit is nothing but an on/off switch.


You say current I say voltage! Laughing
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