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fredleon
Joined: 01 Dec 2014 Posts: 2
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Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 11:12 am Post subject: another one fixed and posted some pictures |
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brilliant stuff many thanks fatz2000 for your post 9 years ago! Worked a treat! I used a fast acting 20mm 500ma fuse and a wired in line fuse holder.
Last edited by fredleon on Fri Mar 23, 2018 5:02 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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srestaino
Joined: 19 Oct 2015 Posts: 7
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Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 10:46 pm Post subject: |
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This is a test, really it is honest |
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srestaino
Joined: 19 Oct 2015 Posts: 7
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Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 10:48 pm Post subject: |
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Hi guys,
I'm hoping one of you on here may be my saviour. I've got an old Denon UD-M30 which also has the CD tray 'open' problem. Apart from this the stereo works like new, if I manually open the tray and put a CD in, it'll still spin up, read it and play.
I've taken it apart to find the PR003 fuse that you all believe needs replacing, but after looking at fredleon images, my circuit boards appear to be much different (in fact the layout of the whole stereo unit does).
Below are a whole bunch of images I took when I took everything apart this weekend. If at all possible, would any of you be able to give me any useful info after looking at these?
Stereo with lid off, CD caddy still in place
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srestaino
Joined: 19 Oct 2015 Posts: 7
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Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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CD caddy removed, front panel disconnected, heat sink etc
CD caddy removed with remainder of stereo in the rear
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srestaino
Joined: 19 Oct 2015 Posts: 7
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Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 10:59 pm Post subject: |
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Top of CD caddy
Bottom of CD caddy
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srestaino
Joined: 19 Oct 2015 Posts: 7
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Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 11:01 pm Post subject: |
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Top of CD caddy with previous circuit board removed
If anyone can give me a pointer at least, that would be fantastic. It would be such a shame to have to throw out this stereo unit just because of what seems to be a small defect.
PS Apologies for the 'test post'. I don't seem to be able to remove it. Admins, feel free to do so. |
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jts1957
Joined: 24 Nov 2008 Posts: 2476 Location: Far, Far Away
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Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 11:12 pm Post subject: |
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The 'ZERO' at the end of YOUR model number would be a LARGE clue.
$1 / $10 / and a $100 bills are all currency, but the extra zero(s) make a HUGE difference. _________________ You're over there, I'm over here. |
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srestaino
Joined: 19 Oct 2015 Posts: 7
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Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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The reason I put it on this thread is because there were other people reporting the same issues with similar models and they seem to have repaired them successfully |
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jts1957
Joined: 24 Nov 2008 Posts: 2476 Location: Far, Far Away
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Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 12:00 am Post subject: |
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Sorry, I don't see that. I See M3 / M5 and a couple other units that appear to be of different brands. Only one with a zero at end ... in next post he admits error. _________________ You're over there, I'm over here. |
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srestaino
Joined: 19 Oct 2015 Posts: 7
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Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 10:29 am Post subject: |
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So basically speaking, you guys are saying there is no similarity, so it's going to be difficult to find a fix? |
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