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Wildwilly01
Joined: 08 Mar 2010
Posts: 2
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 Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 3:28 am Post subject: Toshiba TP55H60 |
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Hello I have an Toshiba TP55H60 that keeps blowing fuse #f889 which is an 125V 3.15A Fuse. I was wondering if any one has run into this problem and if they could help me out.
Thank you. |
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minnie
Joined: 18 Aug 2005
Posts: 2880
Location: Hell
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| Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 4:03 am Post subject: |
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| Suspect D607 & D608 are shorted in audio circuit. Both are 22 volt zener diodes. |
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Wildwilly01
Joined: 08 Mar 2010
Posts: 2
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| Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:27 am Post subject: Thank you |
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Thank you for the quick responce. I will try replacing the diodes and let you know how I make out. do you accept donations?
Thanks again!
wildwilly01 |
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minnie
Joined: 18 Aug 2005
Posts: 2880
Location: Hell
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| Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:27 pm Post subject: |
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| Only alcohol! |
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macusr191
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| Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 1:08 am Post subject: D607 and D608 |
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Just throwing this out there for anyone wanting some light shed on this F889 debacle. Only I cause this myself.
Toshiba TP55H60 RPTV
I caused this exact problem by replacing the speakers with 4-ohm rather than 8-ohm jobbies. Went against my instincts and didn't put an ohmmeter to the replacements.. knowing all too well they might have been mislabeled. I am not sure if it was the low resistance of the new speakers causing this mess, or the magnets on them causing some other electrical distress.. Tubes are close.
Anyhow.. Just for reference this is what happened, exactly in this order.
I removed the old rotted speakers and chucked them. I started with one speaker connected and powered up. Perfecto. Note it was not mounted, just resting below the hole on the floor. Power off, I connect the 2nd and proceeded to mount them in the speaker holes.
Ok so both mounted, wired right, checked twice, I was done. Power on: popping like a guitar amp softly coming on or going off. Happy blinky red safe mode light. She is dead. It instantly ruined both zener diodes @ D607 & D608, shorting, and blowing fuse F889. Thank god i found this post i was going nuts finding the burned parts!
Realistically does anyone know if 4 vs. 8 could cause such immediate damage, or is it more likely the magnets? I have not repaired it yet so I cannot tell you if that was all the damage it took. Open for opinions before I waste an entire weekend desoldering things just to get to the bad juju. Is it worth the trouble?
Also.. would it be possible to just snip the two diodes, replace the fuse and have this thing work w/o sound? Or will the brain just sense that as a problem too and continue to blink at me? |
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jts1957
Joined: 24 Nov 2008
Posts: 2476
Location: Far, Far Away
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macusr191
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| Posted: Sat Oct 23, 2010 2:22 am Post subject: sorry |
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| Impedance... sorry. Brain is fried from messing with it. Anyhow do you think the turkey is fried? |
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macusr191
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| Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 10:57 pm Post subject: just FYI |
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If the first poster is still having trouble.. My issue turns out to be the chip located @ D601. Burned and bleeding from the top. It is the sound controller as far as I know and is what causes F889 to blow almost instantly.
The original part # is LA4282
I will let you guys know if a replacement is possible. |
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jts1957
Joined: 24 Nov 2008
Posts: 2476
Location: Far, Far Away
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| Posted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 11:53 pm Post subject: |
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What color was the blood?
LA4282= Audio output IC.
_________________
You're over there, I'm over here. |
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macusr191
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| Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 12:11 am Post subject: Yep |
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10W 2-channel audio output IC.
The blood was bright lime green with purple swirls!
Found quite a few different brand replacements anywhere from $3-$50. |
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